Reginia Dodson | UAB Community Health and Human Services Intern

The use of alleged natural products to straighten African American women’s hair seems somewhat formidable in nature but also seems important knowing the composition of hair and its structure that deems safe. The natural products used to straighten the hair are an alternative that may seem safe because of the term “natural” being used. The bottom line is that they all contain duplicate chemicals that will eventually become formaldehyde when heated. Most treatments won’t last long, meaning that after about 6 months the results will start to wash out, yet they claim to be free of harmful chemicals. Certain types of hair straightening methods may not cause cancer to most females but in turn, it will cause damage to the hair that is irrespirable and cause hair loss because the follicle is severely damaged. If the hair begins to grow back it will look drastically different from the straightened hair therefore meaning that another hair straightening must be applied to look coherent with the growth that is new.
Permanent hair straightening doesn’t mean it last forever. The results of hair straightening vary widely and are dependent upon the hair type and texture, meaning the life cycle of hair determines how long it will lay. Using hair straightening products is solely up to the consumer and what they are willing to sacrifice in order to get that look or to keep up with the current trend that’s acceptable or cool. Hair weave and extensions have become a healthier substitute or alternative as opposed to hair straightening products and chemicals because they need no chemicals to maintain the straight-hair appeal (Gathers, et.al,2014)
The National Institute of Health reported in 2022 that African American women had an increased risk of getting hormone-related cancer from applying products using hair straightening chemicals and dyes. The cancer most prevalent in African American women from this study was found to be uterine cancer. The frequency of cancer from using these hair straightening products was double that of their counterparts. The terms used to identify, and disguise these cancerous product sources are commonly known as perms or relaxers. African American women are more susceptible to these cancers from extended use over a long period of time because these treatments tend to straighten the hair present and not the hair being grown such as “new growth.”
There are several types of hair straightening methods:
- Professional hair straightening (permanent) Salon appointment usually takes about two hours dependent upon the length of hair ($50)
- At-Home hair straightening relaxing kits that are chemical based with the same results as the salon visit ($15)
- Keratin hair straightening and Brazilian Blowouts straighten hair similar to other hair straightening methods but require several salon visits for completion of the application and last at least 3 to 5 months before a redo ($150)
- Japanese Therma Straightening known as an “acid perm” requires 5 to 6 hours at a salon but lasts up to 6 months. This method uses a neutralizer that causes the hair to lock into a new shape ($200-800)
- Hair Rebounding converts hair that is curly and wavy to straight in about 2 to 4 hours. This process uses formaldehyde which is a known cancer-causing agent but is able to straighten the hair much faster than all the other processes. The cost varies from ($250-1000) (Watson, 2023)
The most important thing to remember any time you are using products is do your research! Find a technique that is both affordable and safe for you.
References:
Gathers, C.R. & Mahan, M.G. (2014, Sep) African American Women, Hair Care, and Health
Barriers. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4174916/
Watson, K. (2023, May) Everything You Want to Know About Permanent Hair Straightening. https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/permanent-hair-straightening